The SS27 menswear shows reflect a true paradigm shift: the rise of an unapologetic, joyful and ultra-creative form of masculine adornment, driven by a new generation of artistic directors.
By Sandrine Merle.
Michael Rider at Celine. Jonathan Anderson at Dior. Julian Klausner at Dries Van Noten. Junya Watanabe. All are exploring, without hesitation, this still largely open territory: jewelry for men. To those who would see it merely as a feminization of menswear, it may be time to understand that this kind of opposition no longer holds much relevance. No gender is no longer a subject of debate. We will therefore gladly make these joyful, unexpected and witty propositions our own. The pin and safety pin on the aristocratic frock coat. Rhinestones, chains and rows of pearls covering a New Era cap and jacket. A bouquet of flowers at the buttonhole. Necklaces and belts made of fine pearl fringes, like moving curtains that lift into the air with each step. An arm bracelet slipped over a jacket sleeve. A rosary-abacus hanging from the belt, beating against the leg. To sum up this spirit, let us follow the inspiration text accompanying Michael Rider’s Celine show: “Panache. And being very unaware of having it. Being yourself, being on your own tip.”
Learn more about men’s jewelry:
Men’s Jewelry: “Signs and Insignia” at The School of Jewelry Arts
