The French brand Nouvel Héritage was born and developed in the United States. Camille Parruitte McKenna, its founder, looks back on the opportunities and characteristics of this strategic market for young designers.
Sandrine Merle. How did Nouvel Héritage’s tremendous success in the United States begin 10 years ago?
Camille Parruitte McKenna. As I was finishing my studies in finance and entrepreneurship in Boston, I wanted to get closer to a family tradition rooted in jewelry, hence the name of the brand. My mother, Marie-Christine Grocq Parruitte, after heading Cartier International in the 1990s and 2000s, developed the MCGP group, which consists of two manufacturing facilities (one in Moulins-sur-Allier and the other in Besançon) and a Parisian workshop. This is where we develop and manufacture all our collections: “Mood”, “Latch”, “Medallion”, and “Wild Garden”. Originally, we wanted to develop the French and American markets at the same time. We focused on the latter because success came very quickly. Today, we have 45 points of sale across the country, growth jumped by more than 75% in 2024, and 2025 is looking good with an 97% increase.
Sandrine Merle. Is it complicated to set up a company and a brand in the United States?
Camille Parruitte McKenna. No, the most complicated part is the immigration process. After my student visa, I was allowed to work in a company for a year, but I chose to start my own. During that time, I had to obtain an investor visa, which is renewable every ten years, provided that the company is growing and employs Americans. I had no choice but to work hard to succeed.
Sandrine Merle. Is there an appetite for new designers in the United States that you don’t find in France?
Camille Parruitte McKenna. The first stores to stock “Mood”, now our best-seller, were fashion boutiques, which are very receptive to young designers. This allows them to satisfy customers who are eager for new things. One of the keys is the product, but also the involvement of the designer: I approached each store individually and took part in numerous events to meet customers. In France, retailers are more sensitive to the brand’s universe, storytelling, longevity, and legitimacy. Then, as the brand grew, it won over boutiques dedicated to more traditional jewelry with brands such as Chanel, Piaget, and Pomellato.
Sandrine Merle. The Couture trade show has just opened in Las Vegas: is it a must for conquering the American market?
Camille Parruitte McKenna. All the retailers, who are absolutely strategic players in this extremely vast geographical area, are there. It is therefore a unique opportunity to reconnect with those we already work with and meet new ones. Word of mouth works very well here, everyone talks a lot about which brands are working and which aren’t. That said, I don’t know what the atmosphere will be like at the 2025 show…
Sandrine Merle. Do you think this edition will be impacted by the uncertainties surrounding customs duties and the surge in gold prices?
Camille Parruitte McKenna. Of course. Jewelry made in France was already taxed at 5.8%, to which Donald Trump has added 10%, bringing the total to almost 16%. As far as we are concerned, we have decided not to pass this on to our prices. I remain optimistic: France and the United States will reach an agreement. The price of gold has a much greater impact on designers’ ability to finance new collections and on retailers’ ability to finance their stock. Consignment sales are likely to enjoy a resurgence.
Sandrine Merle. Was consignment (entrusting jewelry to a retailer who only pays for it if they sell it) a key factor in Nouvel Héritage’s entry into the US market?
Camille Parruitte McKenna. Yes, it was, and this was made possible by the special relationship we have with MCGP manufacturers and the favorable payment terms. These would have been impossible to negotiate with any other external production unit. But today, Nouvel Héritage has proven itself: retailers are investing, and their share of purchases has risen to 75% compared to 25% on consignment.
Sandrine Merle. Looking back, could you have conquered the US market without the expertise and know-how of the MCGP group?
Camille Parruitte McKenna. Actually, I’m not sure I would have even tried! This market offers enormous opportunities, provided you are able to seize them very quickly. Here, there are no problems, only solutions, because the customer is king more than anywhere else in the world. Weekdays, weekends, and holidays don’t exist: if a customer wants to buy a size 19 bracelet on May 1, you have no choice but to find it for them. You can’t disappoint them or the salesperson who has placed all their hopes in you. Once again, Nouvel Héritage is able to meet this requirement thanks to MCGP, which also offers great flexibility to test innovations, produce limited editions, or launch collections in several phases, thus avoiding overstocking in case the product is not successful.
Sandrine Merle. Can you tell us a few words about the next high jewelry collection that will be unveiled next July during Haute Couture Week in Paris?
Camille Parruitte McKenna. Nouvel Héritage is now known for its bracelets, of which we sell more than 850 a year. To celebrate our 10th anniversary, we are launching a collection of chunky chains, which are heavy and powerful maxi chains: Try Me. We are proud of this feat, which involves the assembly of particularly complex links that require a great deal of time and expertise. And all this at very competitive prices when the price of gold exceeds $3,000 an ounce.
Related article:
