Above all, I remember one magnificent collection from the last jewelry week, the Boucheron collection designed by Claire Choisne.
By Sandrine Merle.
Due to the lockdown, few jewelers have been able to complete their high jewelry collection…So for anyone to come up with more than 60 such sublime pieces is truly impressive. And given that it takes an average of 2 years to create a collection like this, the relevance of the theme, “enjoying the present moment” is astonishing. Claire Choisne reminds us of all that is expected of fine jewelry: poetry, technicality, elegance.
The poetry of inspiration
Seizing the ephemeral, the intangible, the fleeting moment of a raindrop stretching infinitely before falling, of a feather flying or the egrets of a dandelion flower dispersing in the air … The omnipresent sky is transformed into a mirror. Diamonds become clouds of cotton. The cerulean colors merge with those of the weather. Everything is weightless.
The technical nature of the materials
The avant-garde materials and techniques steal the show from the stones. Aerogel, a material composed of 99.8% air (the rest being silica), is used by NASA to capture stardust. The use is poetic, the color impalpable and variable according to the light. On an ornament, laser engraving allows to represent a cloud of birds in the rock crystal. Thanks to 3D software and an algorithm, one of the necklaces is formed by a cloud of diamonds and glass droplets mounted on titanium wires.
The elegance of the presentation
Out with the tight long dresses with their luscious necklines! The designer Arthur Mayadoux has sublimated the modernity and poetry of the design with beige cashmere, ivory satin, black knitwear by Acné, Max Mara, Uniqlo, Joseph, etc.. Brands that we are not used to seeing on Place Vendôme. The refined shapes enhance the sensual textures, themselves intensified by the softness of the colors. An ultra-understated and refreshing elegance.
In collection after collection, Claire Choisne demonstrates her talent and unique style. François-Henri Pinault (owner of the Kering group, to which Boucheron belongs), who preceded me on the day of the presentation, seemed entranced.