PAD London - The French Jewelry Post by Sandrine Merle

Jewelers may have abandoned the Biennale de Paris, but they are making a big move into other exhibitions and fairs originally promoting the decorative arts, design or contemporary art. PAD London, a perfect example, is also opening out to trendier and more affordable designers.

Top vintage fare

Antique and vintage jewelry dealers have always liked this type of fair. PAD London is hosting one of the most famous, the American Lee Siegelson, whose magnificent selection includes pieces by Belperron, Després, Boivin, Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier. A kind of mini-museum. The more unobtrusive Karry Berreby is well-known for her discerning eye and infallible taste imbued with a considerable fashion culture. This great specialist is still offering the cream of the Sixties and Seventies (whether or not signed), as well as precious timepieces by Omega, Piaget and Chopard.

Independent designers on the up

The spotlight is on one of jewelry’s truly booming niches: independent designers. Lorenz Bäumer, the German Hemmerle, the Lebanese Walid Akkad, Frédérique Mattei, Suzanne Syz and Glenn Spiro belong to no international groups, and use virtually no communication. They have made a name through one-of-a-kind pieces with exceptional stones, unusual inspirations and atypical materials. Lorenz Bäumer and Suzanne Syz were two of the first to experiment with titanium in every shade, while one of Hemmerl’s major pieces is a bracelet in olive wood, copper and diamonds. Several of them already feature in museum collections.

The incursion of fine jewelry

PAD London is hosting designers of fine jewelry, i.e. extremely creative, easy-to-wear jewelry influenced by fashion. Valéry Demure, one of the first to believe in and develop this niche, offers a selection of outstanding pieces by her protégés, who include Alice Cicolini, Mélanie Georgacopoulos, Francesca Villa and Ioanna Soufflia. They are sure to appeal to collectors visiting the London fair.

PAD London, 1st to 7 October 2018

Valery Demure – New independent designers