January 2023: jewelry was not only on show with jewelers in Paris. A positive plethora appeared during the Fashion Weeks in both haute couture and men’s ready-to-wear collections. A selective look, from the exquisite to the fancy.
By Sandrine Merle.
Paris, January 2023 – The jewelers
– Boucheron: “Like a Queen”, inspired by an aquamarine Art Deco double clip. It was bought in 1937 by the Duke of Kent, who then gave it to Queen Elizabeth II. Artistic Director Claire Choisne has twisted and deconstructed it, transforming the geometric elements into earrings, rings, necklaces and so on. Men and women alike wore it on monochrome Courrèges total looks. The highlight of the week.
– Cartier: the next and final chapter of the “Beautés du Monde” collection. A fresh demonstration of expertise with the inevitable panthers, Tutti Frutti, flexibility, transformability, almost subliminal enamel lines or touches to highlight details, and stones that are “taillées sur œuvre”, i.e. cut especially for the design. Great art.
– Graff: twenty diamond pieces. The most spectacular features diamonds of 150 carats, with an oval one in the center (D Flawless: the finest quality) weighing 50 carats alone. Dazzling.
– Chanel: A preview of five “Mademoiselle Privé” watches ahead of the Watches & Wonders exhibition (March 2023). Inspired by the pin-cushion, a bracelet with a dome-shaped cushion worn by dressmakers, they are characterized by a 55 mm dial, a domed crystal, enamel and diamond decoration representing iconic bags, a jewel throw or a jacket being pieced together.
– Chopard: unmounted stones, single or paired. Alongside them: a design for a piece in the making, to be revealed on the red carpet at the next Cannes Film Festival. Brilliant idea!
– Rouvenat and Courbet produced some firsts in refined jewelry. With Rouvenat: two rosette “Bold” pendants, one with ornaments terminating in aquamarine briolettes. With synthetic diamond specialist Courbet: a “Big Bang” set (symbolizing the effect produced by its arrival in Place Vendôme) with a 5-carat specimen in the center of the necklace. As we know, synthetic diamonds of this weight are rare.
– Louis Vuitton: the second part of the “Spirit” collection. The V of the LV logo is still to the fore, with variations in several forms, like triangles in different sizes and chevrons, notably on very beautiful graphic necklaces.
– Christian Dior: a collection inspired by gold lace. We also find Victoire de Castellane’s favorite subjects since the early 2000s: flowers and the Grand Siècle spirit.
– Cindy Chao: the enchantment of nature. The necklace, made of two emeralds of about 100 carats each, is as impressive as ever. However, it did not overshadow the new pieces, including this pair of sublime brooches featuring cardamom flowers.
Paris, January 2023 – The couturiers
– Schiaparelli: jewelry plastrons. Rather than the Lion’s Head dress, I prefer these pieces made of inlaid shells or stones, bead embroidery, molded leather ornaments covered with gold leaf, rings and necklaces in brass.
– Fendi: snap hook jewelry. The designer, Delfina Delettrez Fendi, was inspired by her passion for climbing. So here we see snap hooks with forms rounded to make them more organic. In sculptural silver and strass, they highlight pleats, shiny diaphanous materials and metallic pastel shades.
– Giambattista Valli: strass and pearl earrings. Pearls, now the designer’s trademark, accompany creations formed by cascades of tulle, trains, embroidery, bows and feathers.
Paris January 2023 – The men’s fashion designers
– Dior Homme: a refined jewelry bracelet by Victoire de Castellane was worn on the upper arm on a striped shirt gathered with a tie.
– Egon Lab: a chatelaine worn on the wrist. A fresh look at this jewelry item much in vogue until the 19th century, and already admired in a previous collection with a punk ambiance. Note the rows of metal nails on the back of the hand creating a skeleton effect.
– Sean Suen: ethnic jewelry. The Chinese designer was inspired by the costumes of the Yi people living in Sichuan’s mountainous regions. Large metal buttons were worn as brooches and belt buckles, while flower-shaped decorations were sewn onto woolen gloves.
– Dsquared2: “what do you wear after a night of sex?” Whatever comes to hand, like a satin and lace tank top with a biker jacket or a strass tiara on your cap!
Banner image: Boucheron, “Like a Queen” collection