Experience the excitement of jewelry
13 October 2021
There’s nothing like lacquer to satisfy that crazy desire for color and optimism! Opaque, smooth and shiny without sparkling like an amethyst or a sapphire, the material is omnipresent in collections. It seems that the pieces have been painted in bright and joyful, even fluorescent, colors – always treated in architectural, graphic blocks. Some collections are particularly noteworthy – Alice Cicolini, by Charlotte de la Rochefoucauld for Dauphin and that of Marc Deloche. On a split ring evoking a rolled leaf, de la Rochefoucauld juxtaposes rectangles of red and orange lacquer, punctuated by emerald or ruby. Deloche, who is also a jeweler and architect, creates a chromatic confrontation with opaque ornamental stones: striated malachite, turquoise, lapis lazuli, and coral. The contrast is particularly successful when the two end up blending into each other.
11 October 2021
I simply fell in love with Tabayer’s bracelet, with its pure form and powerful volume, paved with diamonds that seem almost strewn at random. I was also surprised by its extreme lightness – to the point of wondering if it was really gold at all. “It’s hollowed out, with walls of varying thicknesses depending on their location, the aim being to find the ideal weight, making it super-comfortable to wear. That would have been impossible with solid gold,” explains the young founder of Tabayer Nigora Tokhtabayeva. Other designers (like Lauren Rubinski) have adopted this “trick” associated with affordable jewelry brands like Histoire d’Or and Maty. What a great idea – and one that marks the shattering of yet another taboo: here too, borders are shifting and minds opening up. With the price of gold reaching new highs – between 35 and 50 euros per gram, and higher still for fairmined gold (as in this piece) – this approach is likely to be a trendsetter.
04 October 2021
Balmain’s spectacular spring-summer ‘22 show is a celebration of Olivier Rousteing’s 10 years as artistic director. His amazing work with links – the most basic element of a chain – serves to confirm his status of king of opulence and bejeweled apparel. Take the chains he embroiders on leather jackets or works into draping. Or the trompe l’oeil version on white quilted leather. Or indeed the variety that seems wrapped around the body like a bandage – an omnipresent theme alluding to Rousteing’s recent accident. It was to conceal his burns that he began wearing rings on all fingers like those in the show. And as the central element of this collection, links even become a garment in their own right when Roustaing enlarges them, turning them into an ultra-sexy top. Magnificent.
Treat yourself to a beautiful vintage American gold chain bracelet in the TFJP Shop
29 September 2021
Too big, too fragile, too disturbing, too bulky, too outrageous, too eccentric, too over-the-top… just too much. That’s what you’ll say when you discover the mask clipped on the nose, the necklace-sculpture swirling around the neck or the metal corals unfolding in the mouth. Our relationship with contemporary and artist’s jewelry remains complex. More akin to manifesto and performance, such pieces currently only appeal to a minority. But borders, codes and symbols are all in the mind – they change and evolve. So who knows what lies ahead?
20 September 2021
The glazed tomato blushing in the garden, the blown glass bottle containing a twig, the snail roaming in the morning dew, the donkey in gray flannel or the painting palette of designer and illustrator Marin Montagut… Renard’s pendants are figurative, never conceptual. “My work is completely instinctive and must speak for itself,” says Renard. You get a sense of authenticity, rurality (she spends part of her time in Auvergne), the emotions generated by the tiny details of everyday life, and of work done by hand. Everything is made of bronze using the lost wax technique, and always in small series. “From time to time I work together with a ceramist or glassblower using the same approach, and the idea of making a profit doesn’t even come into it.” No wonder that Japan, where I discovered Renard a few years ago in a store in the Ayoama district, is so taken with his work.
14 September 2021
Gaia Repossi, artistic director of the brand founded by her father (now owned by LVMH), has created a jewelry collection inspired by the world of Robert Mapplethorpe. It was with one of his works (Puerto Rico 1981) that she began her personal collection of photographs. Drawing on the archives of the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation and the Getty Research Institute, her pieces are based on those worn by the artist, such as the multi-chain diamond necklace. Others are interpretations of elements found in his photographs and collages. Among my favorites is the black and yellow gold ring, whose shape, which spans two fingers, is based on the American flag in which Lisa Lyon is wrapped in a 1982 photo. Not to mention the necklace adorned with a lobster claw (a recurring feature of Mapplethorpe’s work). In this type of “post-mortem collaboration”, it’s always intriguing to wonder what the original artist would have made of it all – given that he used to make jewelry for himself and his friends…
09 September 2021
This very young brand (which uses recycled gold and synthetic diamonds) has taken on designer Philippe Airaud, whose talent is beyond question (he often works in the shadows for major houses). True to his ultra-minimalist style, he works with curves evoking “the traces of the wind in the desert” – an inspiration is reflected in two flagship models: an open necklace and an open ring with a synthetic diamond at each end. They face each other, one emerald cut, the other oval. A neo Toi & Moi, or in the words of Airaud himself, “a face-to-face encounter”. After red, yellow and white gold, this latest version comes in black, matte and charcoal gold. The asymmetrical synthetic stones, set in yellow gold, create luminous counterpoints. Beautiful.
08 September 2021
Magda Benmlih offers up a new beautiful interpretation of the signet ring, the genderless jewel par excellence. Her unique model is made of gold or silver-colored steel. “Gold and preciousness are not obsessions of mine”, explains the young woman who works for jewelry brands but also “loved working with Elie Top at Lanvin”, in the glory days of Alber Elbaz. The huge asset of this jewel, with its perfect proportions and rounded corners, is that it is infinitely customizable with a beautifully exquisite engraving, not unlike a tattoo. It can be stamped with your initials, a date, a sentence, a drawing… It’s entirely up to you and takes only 3 weeks. We await with bated breath the next chapter in this story, which only started only 5 months ago. Bring it on!
From €90 @stamped_official
25 August 2021
The link dates back to the early 1940s, when the jeweler’s signature piece – the ballerina clip – first appeared. In addition to jewelry and watchmaking creations, Van Cleef & Arpels went on to collaborate with Balanchine and more recently with Benjamin Millepied. Company CEO Nicolas Bos is now taking the connection to another level with a “multifaceted” sponsorship program to “support choreographic heritage and contemporary creativity, and share this artistic universe with as many people as possible”. The initiative is motivated by the same spirit as Van Cleef’s support for The School of Jewelry Arts, with one difference – there is no longer any link with jewelry. The culmination of this program, called “Dance Reflections by Van Cleef & Arpels” and directed by Serge Laurent (formerly of the Pompidou Center), will be an annual festival in partnership with the Tate and the Royal Opera. The first event in London, in April 2022, will present 18 works from the 1970s to the present day, by both well-known and unknown artists.
21 May 2021
In its exhibition “Napoléon et Joséphine – Une histoire (extra)ordinaire”, the jeweler Chaumet presents (among many other jewels) acrostic bracelets that belonged to the empress. By deciphering the initials of each stone, we discover a word or a message, in this case the first names of her children: Eugène and Hortense. These museum pieces are obviously not for sale but this beautiful idea can easily be appropriated. Indeed, Chaumet still makes such sentimental jewelry, in the form of bracelets, in accordance with each person’s story. The unique message is thus known only to the wearer.
Discover the exhibition “Napoléon et Joséphine – Une histoire (extra)ordinaire”
Experience the excitement of jewelry
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