Experience the excitement of jewelry
18 January 2021
Here are some figures in preview from the monthly Francéclat-Panel5 report for the year 2020 relating to the jewelry and watchmaking sector. In France, 2020 has been the most negative year (since the first Panel5 studies in 1979) with a 14% drop in turnover compared to 2019. The good news was the rebound in December with a 12% increase in turnover compared to last year. “It was the best December since 2011, a remarkable performance because foreign customers were absent and the threats to our society and our economy were numerous,” says Hubert Lapipe, founder of Panel5. The full 2020 figures will be unveiled very soon by Francéclat.
10 January 2021
In its annual Monaco sale, Artcurial includes around twenty Cartier panthers. “They all come from a personal collection of 100 pieces of jewelry that a great jewelry lover gave as a present to his wife,” says Julie Valade, director of the jewelry departement. Cartier has been inspired by panthers since 1914 and has never stopped creating new versions. The panthers on sale dating from 1990 to 2010 take various forms: all-gold ring alongside one entirely set with diamonds, a pendant spotted with enamel or black onyx, flat or in 3D, as well as a necklace, a brooch, etc. Not to mention a spotted watch that echoes the original 1914 model. My favorite piece : the roaring stylized and faceted panther into which you slip your finger.
Auction 20 January 2021 at L’Hermitage, Monte-Carlo
08 January 2021
In her latest collection, Melanie Georgacopoulos pulls off a new feat: padded mother-of-pearl, sculpted as if a button had been pushed into a cushion. “Only the tenderness of this material, often seen as a disadvantage, made this work possible. I had fun associating it with diamond, the hardest stone.” Over the last decade, Mélanie Georgacopoulos has masterfully taken mother-of-pearl, her favorite material, out of the classical register thanks to spectacular pieces and new techniques. Her masterstroke: cutting the pearl in half to reveal its inner beauty (for M/G Tasaki), plus the different layers of mother-of-pearl that compose it. Her Instagram account, with images that celebrate this material above and beyond her own creations, is a must.
07 January 2021
Los Angeles-based designer Cathy Waterman creates about fifty unique pieces for a select few boutiques around the world each year. White Bird is her sole representative in Europe. Waterman is passionate about the Middle Ages and draws in her work on naturalistic motifs such as oak leaves, laurel leaves and bramble leaves. The chiseled openwork gold on the frames conjures up dewdrops or tears, while the subtle blend of very warm (almost pure) 22-carat gold or oxidized gold with luminous white platinum imbues her pieces with an emotive beauty.
12 September 2020
Having worked in communications for a number of contemporary jewelery designers, Anne-Lise Delsol launched Caillou. On this site, she sells her selection of antique pieces exclusively from professional dealers. “All those years of walking around antique fairs with my collector father suddenly caught up with me!” Her sharp eye falls mainly on delicate jewelry of charm and finesse, with a beautiful choice of earrings and engagement rings. Other irresistible treasures to be discovered at Caillou : “Les Réinventés” collection including the solo earrings that Anne-Lise Delsol makes from elements adorning tiepins that have fallen into disuse. Spellbinding.
Budget between €250 and €3500.
25 August 2020
The “Jean Vendome Artist Jeweler” exhibition will give rise to several conferences, including one by his son, Thierry. And who better than Thierry, also a jeweler, to talk about him? All the more so as he also worked with his father for 23 years… “He wanted me to work with minerals but I had to break free! I started working with rusty metals, which was a real trend in the 80s, driftwood, pebbles, shells.” Today, Thierry Vendome is back to minerals and above all to opal, which he loves above all else. “It’s true that my work is close to that of my father: he was and remains my master.”
Conversation “L’art de Jean Vendome” (in French only) with Thierry Vendome and François Farges, 5 November 2020 at the National Musum of Natural History
11 August 2020
The door handle at 8 rue de Grenelle, Céline Daoust’s first store in Paris, is in polished jasper with green highlights. It embodies the passion devoted to precious stones by the Belgian designer, who spends six months of the year in Jaipur picking out each of her rock crystals, slice-cut diamonds, moonstones and tourmalines (her favorite stone), including the bi-colored watermelon variety in pink and green. Indian craftspeople then fix them into her delicate settings: multi-medallion necklaces, hand- or eye-shaped pendants, and reversible rings like charming talismans.
03 August 2020
Lise Guitton, the Inouïtoosh’s designer who works with both scarves and jewelry, has dreamed up a large silk square printed with precious stones – amethysts, agate and diamonds – whose washed -out colors evoke a 19th century encyclopedia. Some appear in the rough as crystals still in their gangue, while others are entirely faceted, in oval, cushion and pear cuts. On the fluid silk, depending on whether the scarf is worn rolled, twisted, folded into a point or draped as a sarong, the mineral motifs overlap each other and are repositioned, forming marvelous abstract tableaux.
€155 – 130cm x 130 cm
06 July 2020
I wanted to know more about Dina Level because her name keeps cropping up over and over again in the jewelry world. Conceived like a family album from photos, press clippings, and letters, the book ” Dina à la loupe ” (Dina under the magnifying glass) draws the portrait of an unusual gemmologist, a sparkling petite woman who has never stopped sharing her immense knowledge. In retracing the life of Dina Level from her birth to the 80s, Catherine Aubert (a former student) transports us into the world of stones. We witness the birth of the Laboratoire Française de Gemmologie in the 1920s. We go from her classrooms to the jewelers’ workshops via the rooms of the Cluny museum. We meet characters and luminaries such as Jean Vendome, Roger Caillois and Daniel Alcouffe, director of the department of objets d’art at the Louvre. A fascinating book for beginners and connoisseurs alike.
01 July 2020
What a pleasure it is to discover Monica Rossi’s jewelry at White Bird! I met this Italian designer in the early 2000s when she had a boutique in Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Her 19-carat gold, of an infinitely subtle color, is shaped like old lace. Her necklaces are inspired by rosaries. Monica Rossi hunts down miniature elements and has others (like her crocheted bears) made by Italian artisans. She then assembles them into “story necklaces”. Her leitmotif: the engraved secret message placed inside a medallion, a ring or rolled gold leaf. Pure poetry.
Experience the excitement of jewelry
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