11 October 2022

TFJP x Christie’s Paris, how to wear vintage jewelry / 2

Jewelry that’s vintage is also contemporary and suited to everyday wear. For TFJP with Christie’s Paris jewelry department, here’s the second demonstration from creative duo Laura Bonnefous and Stéphanie Brissay.

By Sandrine Merle.



The focal point of this image is a magnificent 1960s dolphin brooch by David Webb. Everything revolves around this statement piece in sculpted coral, typical of the fantastic bestiary created by the American jeweler. Next to it is a short necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels that can be transformed into two double-row bracelets, one of coral balls and the other of chrysoprase balls. Plus an octagonal pendant by Poiray, probably from the 1980s, in coral, blackened steel and diamonds.


Toying with false matches

This dolphin pendant is not just for collectors. It’s totally wearable as long as you don’t match it with other pieces that just as showy – the whole effect would be way too over-the-top. But then again if everything was graphic and architectural, like the Poiray necklace, the overall look might end up being boring. Imbalances and asymmetries are a hallmark of contemporaneity: nothing should be like anything else. A big brooch, a smaller pendant. A round shape, an angular shape. The aim is a blend of figurative and abstract, of proportions and shapes.


Drawing the eye

As it’s all about balance, don’t go for a total coral look! Of course, this pretty color is the main thread of the ensemble, but it’s better to introduce another one, just like this… to mix things up a bit. Hence the little touches of green, with the chrysoprase balls and two emeralds – one forming the eye of the dolphin and the other polished in cabochon adorning the ring (by David Webb). Set against the bracelet, the latter forms a beautiful luminous counterpoint. Your gaze is drawn back and forth, losing its way, lingering, making connections …


Clothes: be daring with difficult colors

Your choice of clothes, jacket and shirt is never trivial! They can be used to partly hide, provide a semi-camouflage, or slightly conceal: the collar of the shirt spills over the necklace and the sleeve of the jacket, slightly too long, covers the bracelet. The look must be casual, those aren’t museum pieces that you’re wearing! In terms of colors, it’s out with the black and white but also gray, avoiding any hint of careful coordination: go for colors thought to be difficult, like petrol blue or burnt bread with white dots. Don’t hesitate to choose ochres, mustard and parma, which are just as offbeat. It’s all about offsetting the vintage side of coral.


Photograph : Laura Bonnefous
Model : Suzanne Meyer (Tribe Management)
Stylist : Stéphanie Brissay
Assisted by Matthias Debras
Hair : Nina Olivet
Make up : Laura Merle
Assistant : Loup Catusse
Retouching : Granon Digital


Related articles:

TFJP x Christie’s Paris: how to wear vintage jewelry 1/6

Online auctions with Violaine d’Astorg at Christie’s Paris

Most popular articles

TFJP x Comité Colbert, the great hotels and the gold standard

When they opened at the end of the 19th century, they sparkled. But in the wake of numerous transformations and renovations, where are they today?

TFJP x Christie's, how to wear vintage jewelry /3

Here’s the third in the series put together by TFJP and the jewelry department of Christie’s Paris.

TFJP x Comité Colbert, gold in tableware

TFJP and the Comité Colbert explore gold in tableware, and its ability to go so well with white porcelain, crystal and silver.

TFJP x Comité Colbert, gold in decoration

After gold in gastronomy, fashion and jewelry, it’s time to focus on gold in decoration. The yellow metal has always been an essential element of the...

Cofalit: Boucheron's "leftover material"

In its raw form, Cofalit obtained from industrial waste (including asbestos) looks like charcoal. Once polished and cut, it’s more like obsidian.

TFJP x Comité Colbert, the savoir-faire and métiers of gold jewelry

If you want to rejuvenate this forty-year-old pendant by René Boivin, there are much bolder choices than just plain, black or white!