15 February 2022
Highlights from Jewelry Week – Paris, January 2022
During the recent couture week, the houses presented their high jewelry collections. Here are the masterpieces, brand by brand.
By Sandrine Merle.
Boucheron, – the “New Maharajahs” collection
The entire collection. Claire Choisne reinterprets the largest special order ever made, that for the Maharaja of Patiala: in 1928, he came to Boucheron with 5 chests of precious stones to be reconfigured in the Western taste. The contemporary version has a more portable cut and a radical use of white (pearl, diamond, mother-of-pearl, rock crystal) punctuated by a few emeralds. All the classic Calire Choisne leitmotivs feature: transformability, no-gender, stone on stone, etc.
Cartier – more from the “Sixième Sens” collection
The necklace “Synesthesia” formed by small balls of turquoise and emeralds studded with diamonds. The pendant is a 35.47 carat emerald with cut rectangles, so transparent that you can admire its gardens. These colors, inspired by the arts of Islam, are one of the pillars of the Cartier style.
The white gold bracelet is entirely covered with articulated and reversible scales: in onyx for the day, in diamonds for the evening.
The Toi & Moi with a sumptuous Kashmir sapphire of 5.59 carats and a no less sumptuous diamond of 5.01 carats. Both coiled in an interlacing of baguette diamonds, cut on the piece itself. The price: north of 2 million euros…
The solitaire formed by a rare 10.88 carat fancy intense pink diamond named “Rose de Caroline” (after Caroline Scheufele, the brand’s artistic director), flanked by two bright red heart cut rubies. A bold move to mix these colors along with the old-fashioned heart cut, but it works perfectly!
The diamond necklace highlighted by 7 octagonal cut emeralds (122.49 carats). A classic.
The 6225-carat Insofu raw emerald, an exceptional stone discovered in Zambia, whose shape evokes a trunk (hence its name, meaning “elephant”). Date for the diary: June 2023, to discover the stones that have been extracted.
The new three-dimensional pair of “Fruits” earrings. Beyond the random setting work in which the designer excels, this piece is distinguished by the pair of dark yellow-brown diamonds weighing over 16 carats each. Consistent with the exceptional work of Cindy Chao, who has just been named Chevalier de l’Ordre des Arts et Lettres.
Chaumet – the “Déferlante” collection
The tiara with its arrangement of diamonds of all sizes (including the “house” cut, the Impératrice) held together by knife wires. One of Chaumet’s favorite techniques, ideal for illustrating the flow of water, a jewelry classic.
Fawaz Gruosi loves oversized jewelry, spectacular stones, contrasting colors… One piece sums up his style: the diamond necklace whose curved lines are highlighted by emeralds, his favorite stone. The ergonomic shape was designed to follow the movement of the neckline.
De Beers – first part of the “The Alchemist of Light” collection
The “Light Rays” necklace is made up of a front panel formed by a fan of anodized titanium and black rhodium-plated gold fringes. The warm hues echo those of the central 4.22-carat diamond. This is the first time De Beers has given such prominence to a material other than diamonds, as the brand was founded by the eponymous giant.
Louis Vuitton, – more from the “Bravery” collection
Gender-neutral chains with links paved with baguette-cut diamonds.
The incredible ultra-flexible rainbow necklace is composed of tourmalines of all colors, the most beautiful of which, a lagoon blue of 42.42 carats, is positioned on the clasp. The clasp is omnipresent in this collection, as are all the hallmarks of the classica trunk: the bolt, the reinforcements at the corners, etc.
This fun long necklace whose pendant is formed by a green tourmaline of 35.64 carats integrated into a rock crystal case with an LED. Here it is lit from the inside …
Banner image : Boucheron