{"id":1802,"date":"2016-03-04T08:00:54","date_gmt":"2016-03-04T07:00:54","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/thefrenchjewelrypost.com\/\/en\/?post_type=it-joailliers&#038;p=1802"},"modified":"2023-10-26T01:26:59","modified_gmt":"2023-10-26T00:26:59","slug":"lalique-au-gulbenkian","status":"publish","type":"it-joailliers","link":"https:\/\/thefrenchjewelrypost.com\/en\/it-joailliers\/lalique-au-gulbenkian\/","title":{"rendered":"Ren\u00e9 Lalique in the Gulbenkian"},"content":{"rendered":"<p lang=\"en-US\">This <a href=\"https:\/\/gulbenkian.pt\/museu\/en\/new-readings\/lalique-and-the-woman-flower\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">collection of Ren\u00e9 Lalique jewelry<\/a> \u2013\u00a0 the jeweler of Art Nouveau \u2013 is the most beautiful in the world, along with the Museum of Decorative Art\u2019s collection in Paris.<\/p>\n<p lang=\"en-US\">By Sandrine Merle.<\/p>\n<p>The eccentricity and the fragility of Ren\u00e9 Lalique jewelry made it unwearable for most women of the Belle \u00c9poque, with the exception of some figures from the financial and artistic elite like the actress Sarah Bernhardt, the Countess Greffulhe or the demi-mondaine, Liane Pougy. The Armenian financier and oil magnate, Calouste Gulbenkian, bought them however, to display in showcases in his mansion on Avenue d&#8217;I\u00e9na in Paris. And few were those able to admire them, as he jealously guarded these jewels in seclusion like &#8220;harem women&#8221;. <span lang=\"en-US\">Exhibited today in the last room of the Gulbenkian Museum in Lisbon, this collection is there for all to see.<\/span><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong><span lang=\"en-US\">Breathtakingly beautiful<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<p><span lang=\"en-US\">These jewelry pieces dating from the early 20th century perfectly illustrate the jeweler\u2019s uniqueness and sense of observation coupled with a highly fanciful imagination. Ren\u00e9 <\/span><span lang=\"en-US\">Lalique<\/span><span lang=\"en-US\"> is considered to be &#8220;the inventor of modern jewelry&#8221;, breaking away from the statuesque and soulless jewelry of the time. Bodice pieces, chokers and combs highlight the originality of materials, never or little used until then in jewelry, such as horn, ivory, translucent enamel, glass and ornamental stones. The delight in exploring the glassy depths of moonstone would later inspire Lalique\u2019s research into glass. These jewels are not pieces to dismantle in order to have the gems reset.<\/span><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p lang=\"en-US\"><strong><span lang=\"en-US\">A unique sense of the erotic in jewelry<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<p lang=\"en-US\"><span lang=\"en-US\">All exude a disturbing beauty. They may almost appear repulsive when taking on the aspects of thistles, algae and prickly, tentacle-like poppies inspired by Japanese art. Some flirt with the notion of withering and display a unique sense of the erotic in jewelry. Nymphs, sylphs, and armored and helmeted warriors reflect the artist&#8217;s obsession with the lewd and provocative body. These are transformed into orchids, peacocks or dragonflies on bodice pieces, given pride of place in the center of the room. A bestiary found repugnant with bats, wasps and frogs adorn the neck and hair. An orchid with wavy, velvety petals in gold, precious stones and ivory celebrates a woman\u2019s sex with elegance and poetry.<\/span> The visit of the Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation ends in a passionate world that\u2019s deliciously perverse and decadent.<\/p>\n<p lang=\"en-US\">Related articles:<\/p>\n<p lang=\"en-US\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.thefrenchjewelrypost.com\/en\/?p=35279\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">The Lalique Museum, the artist&#8217;s glass universe<\/a><\/p>\n<p lang=\"en-US\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.thefrenchjewelrypost.com\/en\/?p=34574\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">TFJP x Christie&#8217;s, how to wear vintage jewelry \/5<\/a><\/p>\n<p lang=\"en-US\">\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>This collection of Lalique jewelry \u2013  the jeweler of Art Nouveau \u2013 is the most beautiful in the world, along with the Museum of Decorative Art\u2019s collection in Paris.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"featured_media":1785,"template":"","tags":[4716],"class_list":["post-1802","it-joailliers","type-it-joailliers","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","tag-art-nouveau","histoire-museum","ville-lisbon"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.3 - 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