{"id":38701,"date":"2025-12-15T21:59:17","date_gmt":"2025-12-15T20:59:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/thefrenchjewelrypost.com\/?post_type=business&p=38701"},"modified":"2026-08-26T12:53:13","modified_gmt":"2026-08-26T10:53:13","slug":"antique-or-vintage-jewelry-no-signature-no-value","status":"publish","type":"business","link":"https:\/\/thefrenchjewelrypost.com\/en\/business\/antique-or-vintage-jewelry-no-signature-no-value\/","title":{"rendered":"Antique and Vintage Jewelry: No Signature, No Value?"},"content":{"rendered":"

With real estate and life insurance no longer delivering sufficient returns, antique and vintage is increasingly being viewed as an investment. But for newcomers, the reality is far from straightforward.<\/p>\n

By Sandrine Merle.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Wondering which period is the most bankable? That\u2019s the wrong question. What really matters \u2014 almost exclusively \u2014 is the signature: the reputation of the house or designer. At the very top end of the market, collectors and professionals swear by just two names:\u00a0Cartier\u00a0and\u00a0Van Cleef & Arpels.\u00a0Suzanne Belperron, Boucheron and Chaumet\u00a0also attract strong interest, albeit to a lesser extent. For Art Nouveau,\u00a0Ren\u00e9 Lalique\u00a0stands head and shoulders above two other exceptional houses:\u00a0Fouquet\u00a0and the Spanish firm\u00a0Masriera. For all these prestigious names, however, prices quickly climb into the several-hundred-thousand-euro range. The 19th-century market, which lacks similarly celebrated signatures, remains more accessible, despite growing appetite from Asian buyers.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Flawless<\/strong><\/p>\n

As with a prime real-estate purchase, every indicator needs to be green. Rarity is paramount, and even the slightest flaw can have a negative impact on value. Alterations should therefore be avoided at all costs. A pendant that was once a brooch, or an old-cut diamond replaced with a modern cut, will weigh heavily on resale prospects. The expert who issues the certificate also matters. For periods of high production, such as Art Deco, it is advisable to focus on pieces with a distinctive feature \u2014 an extra touch of character \u2014 whether onyx accents, calibre-cut diamonds or unusual detailing. Crescent-moon brooches were common in the 19th century, but the example that recently sold for 15,500 euros, almost tripling its estimate, stood out for its unusual dimensions and cabochon rubies.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Signature + maker\u2019s mark = the Holy Grail<\/strong><\/p>\n

Today, the Holy Grail is the combination of a signature and a maker\u2019s mark identifying the workshop. \u201cThe remarkable research carried out by experts into workshop hallmarks is now bearing fruit,\u201d says Steven Portier. The names synonymous with excellence can be counted on one hand: Perry, Georges Lenfant, De Percin and, to a lesser extent, Gay and Vassor, all of whom worked for Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron and Herm\u00e8s. This dual pedigree guarantees a surge in value, as evidenced last October at Bonhams Cornette de Saint Cyr, where this Herm\u00e8s gold curb-link bracelet signed by Georges Lenfant sold for \u20ac38,400 \u2014 more than twice its estimate. As early as 2014, one example had been estimated at \u20ac2,000\u20132,500 and fetched \u20ac11,000. All Herm\u00e8s silver curb-link bracelets benefit from this phenomenon as well \u2014 despite silver traditionally being associated with costume jewelry. One of them even set a record, reaching \u20ac95,650 last October, again at Bonhams Cornette de Saint Cyr.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

As with equities, purchases should be\u00a0stress-tested\u00a0\u2014 in other words, assessed against a range of potential scenarios. It is wiser to compete for a\u00a01970s Alhambra necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels\u00a0than for a fragile early-20th-century necklace or a sentimental trench ring made by a soldier. For budgets under \u20ac10,000, don\u2019t aim for a windfall. Instead, focus on\u00a0\u201cpleasure\u201d jewellery, which tends to avoid sudden price swings. Seek out charming or well-designed pieces without a reserve price. And if, in twenty years\u2019 time, your taste aligns with the market \u2014 so much the better.<\/p>\n

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Thanks to Stephen Portier from E&S Portier, Alexandre L\u00e9ger, Castafiore, Emma Langlais at Gros & Delettrez, Astrid Guillon<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Banner image: topaz, aquamarine, and diamond necklace by Suzanne Belperron<\/a> sold for $889,000 (three times its estimate of $600,000\u20131,000,000) at Sotheby’s NY (December 8, 2025)<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Related articles:<\/p>\n

The low-down on Castafiore\u00a0<\/a><\/p>\n

Auctions: does brand-new jewelry have a place?<\/a><\/p>\n

An exceptional collection of Suzanne Belperron and Ren\u00e9 Boivin jewelry at Sotheby\u2019s New York<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

With real estate and life insurance no longer delivering sufficient returns, antique and vintage is increasingly being viewed as an investment. But for newcomers, the reality is far from straightforward. By Sandrine Merle.     Wondering which period is the most bankable? That\u2019s the wrong question. What really matters \u2014 almost exclusively \u2014 is the […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"featured_media":38721,"template":"","tags":[],"class_list":["post-38701","business","type-business","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nAntique and Vintage Jewelry: No Signature, No Value?<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"With real estate no longer delivering sufficient returns, antique and vintage is increasingly being viewed as an investment.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/thefrenchjewelrypost.com\/en\/business\/antique-or-vintage-jewelry-no-signature-no-value\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Antique and Vintage Jewelry: No Signature, No Value?\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" 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